Student Easels

The difference between a Student Model easel and a normal easel is only cosmetic. The student model is ready to use, But I needs to be oiled for longevity. The wood will be dressed (planed) but not not be sanded, other than to remove sharp edges and splinters. The easel is to be oiled by you. Structurally and functionally it will be the same as a regular easel, but the surface will be a little coarser.

The purchaser of a Student Easel is expected to do some work on the easel to finish it off. It will work the same as a fully finished easel, and you can use it without any more sanding but for longevity, the easel must be oiled, instructions provided. It is easy to do but a little messy, using Olive Oil with a little Turpentine mixed in.

Please note that I spend a lot of time sanding easels and by skipping the sanding I can offer these reduced, student prices, in reality the sanding is only cosmetic and I do it as it elevates the finished standard of my easels, which most purchasers prefer. If you purchase a Student Model Counterweighted H frame easel I will have sanded some surfaces to minimise friction, all other surfaces will dressed.

Student model ABHLS1800 1.8 metres tall, no top mount frame 42x19mm. The wood will look whiter than this as photo taken indoors without a flash.

Student Model HBH1800S with optional tray. Please note the pale colour of the wood. When oiled this will go a golden brown. If not oiled it will end up a miserable gray, after a number of years, and slowly keep on deteriorating. Oiling prevents deterioration and lasts for a very long time and is very easy to top up.

Student Model HBH1800S with no tray Castors normally supplied with this model as standard, but had not been fitted to this one, saving the purchaser a few more dollars.

Rear view. All my easels are sturdy and well made. When oiled there is no reason why any of my easels should ever give trouble.

Student version of Counterweighted HCHS2000

You should first sand with some 150 grit Aluminum Oxide sandpaper (gray coloured, the grit number is on the back). then 180, which will produce a good smooth finish, you can go to higher numbers with finer sandpaper, but it can be a lot of work.

To get a nice smooth finish then sand with 240 and for super smooth sand with 400. IE Start with a low number then finish with a high number. I can provide free sandpaper with the easel, please ask.

If you prefer you can use an electric sander. Only consider a random orbital sander, as they do not leave scratches. Beware of using a normal orbital sander.

Use olive oil with 30% turpentine added. Wear thin Latex gloves, which you buy in bulk packs at any supermarket. Soak a rag in the oil mix, wipe the easel all over. Make sure you oil the ends of each piece of wood. You can then let the oil soak in and dry over night. If you want to use the easel immediately you should let it soak for at least 10 minutes then wipe over with a dry rag.

You should oil the easel every few years or if the wood looks dry, just dampen a rag with olive oil and wipe over. Do this and your easel will virtually last forever. After a lot of use and if the knobs seem tight put a drop of Light Machine Oil (sewing machine oil, available at supermarkets) on the threads, this may be required after a couple of years heavy use.